Costa di Torrazza. Pinot Noir has confirmed its position as the most widely planted grape variety in Oltrepò Pavese. Data from the region’s vineyard map, created by Alessandro Masnaghetti for the Oltrepò Pavese Wine Consortium and presented Monday morning at the Garavani Theater in Voghera, captures a trend that has been emerging across the region: the grape variety at the heart of its sparkling-wine production has overtaken Croatina, the grape used to make Bonarda.

The Region

The Doc/Docg area (40 municipalities) covers approximately 41,000 hectares, about six times the total area of Barolo, slightly less than the Chianti Classico appellation, and twice the size of Franciacorta. Of these 41,000 hectares, approximately 11,500 hectares are planted with vineyards: 90% of the vineyard area is concentrated between 100 and 350 meters above sea level, while only 2% lies above 450 meters.

As for grape varieties, Pinot Noir accounts for 2,903 hectares of vineyards (25.2% of the total), confirming its position as the region’s leading variety. Croatina ranks second, with 2,797 hectares (24.3%), followed by Barbera (1,528 hectares, 13.3%), Pinot Grigio (1,395 hectares, 12%), Riesling (1,029 hectares, including 117 acres of Rhine Riesling and the remainder Italian Riesling, 8.9%), and Moscato (815 hectares, 7%).

“Vineyards are concentrated mainly in the central and eastern parts of Oltrepò,” Masnaghetti points out. “Pinot Noir is most heavily concentrated in the central part of the Scuropasso Valley, but also in the Coppa and Versa valleys. Croatina, on the other hand, is strongly concentrated in eastern Oltrepò, between Montù Beccaria, San Damiano and Rovescala, where there is greater availability of the water this variety needs. Barbera, meanwhile, is more scattered across the region.”

Montalto Pavese remains the “capital” of Pinot Noir, with the largest planted area, accounting for 10.7% of all Pinot Noir acreage in Oltrepò and 65% of the municipality’s vineyard area. It is followed by Montecalvo Versiggia (7.9%) and Borgo Priolo (7.9%).

For Croatina, the largest concentration is in Santa Maria della Versa, home to 10.6% of the variety’s acreage across the Oltrepò appellation, followed by Rovescala (10.3%) and Montù Beccaria (10.3%). Montù Beccaria leads in Barbera (11.4%), Santa Maria della Versa in Pinot Grigio (11.5%), and Montalto Pavese in Riesling (15.9%).

The Valleys

Masnaghetti’s vineyard map divides Oltrepò into its four main valleys—Staffora, Coppa, Scuropasso and Versa—which correspond to the additional geographical designations (MGAs) provided for under the new production regulations for the Metodo Classico DOCG, which will be known as Classese.

The Versa Valley comes out on top, both in terms of total vineyard area and vineyard density. Vineyards cover 47.5% of the valley’s total area, with Croatina accounting for 31.2% and Pinot Noir for 19.3%.

The Scuropasso Valley has slightly lower vineyard density than the Versa Valley, at 42.6%, with most vineyards concentrated between 330 and 1,180 feet above sea level. In the Versa Valley, vineyards can reach elevations of around 1,640 feet.

The Coppa Valley, meanwhile, is the largest of the four, covering 34% of the Oltrepò appellation.

Finally, the Staffora Valley has the lowest vineyard density, at just 6%. But Pinot Noir accounts for more than 26% of the varieties planted there—slightly less than in the Coppa Valley, but more than in the Versa Valley.